SUNBEAM FRAME NUMBER DATING. 1909 = 96,739 (declared) 1910 = 101,700 (calculated) 1911 = 106,700 (calculated) 1912 = 111,642 (declared) PREMIER FRAME NUMBER DATING. BEESTON HUMBER FRAME NUMBER DATING. ELSWICK HOPPER FRAME NUMBER DATING. The following dated bicycle frame numbers from the Singer Car Club (not guaranteed): 1903 – 142069. To register your bike, you will need the serial number from underneath the bottom bracket on your bike. Registration is advantageous in that it provides us with a way to give local police ownership information on recovered stolen bikes. It is also useful in warranty.
- Specialized Bicycle Serial Number Chart
- Specialized Bicycle Serial Number Decoder
All bikes1all have unique serial numbers.
Finding a bicycle serial number
Most bicycles have their serial number engraved beneath their bottom bracket, but sometimes serial numbers are found in other places. Here are some examples of where and what to look for:
The bottom bracket (where serial numbers are typically located) is circled.
A serial number on the underside of a bottom bracket.
Another serial number beneath the bottom bracket, aligned parallel to the frame.
Rad Power bikes have their serial number on the head tube. This is on the front of the bike.
Some Schwinn bicycles also have the unique identifying number (their serial number) on the head tube.
A serial number located on a rear dropout. Some BMX bikes and a few Schwinn bicycles place the serial on the rear dropout. On older Schwinns there are numbers stamped on both the drive side and non-drive side rear dropouts; the one on the non-drive side dropout is the serial number.
Some bikes have multiple serial numbers.2When adding a bike to the Index, it's best to enter all the groups of numbers and letters separated by spaces.
Hopefully you can find the serial number on the bicycle you're looking at - email contact@bikeindex.org if you're having trouble.
Searching serials on Bike Index
Finding bicycles by serial number on Bike Index is a critical part of our functionality. When searching for a serial number, use our serial search bar - it's the second bar on our search form.
We've done a few things to make it more likely that you'll find the bike you're looking for.
- Certain numbers and letters are difficult or impossible to distinguish between (e.g. 0 and O, S and 5). We treat all these numbers the same way - a search for
005LLL
will match a bike with the serial OOS111
. - We split bike serials up by spaces and store each separately. If you see multiple numbers on a bicycle - such as in the photo of the Look bike above - try searching for just one of the numbers at a time. Searching for either
M4106I9CA1
or 200910427-2A
will find the bike. - We do close serial matching - bikes with serial numbers that are close to the serial you entered are shown below the matching results under the heading 'Serial Numbers Close to...' - given a search of a serial number with a couple numbers/letters that are different or missing.
- We do not currently do partial serial searches. If you search for
1234
, you will only find bikes with serial numbers of 1234
and serials close to that - not a bike with serial number of 12345689
.
Specialized Bicycle Serial Number Chart
- Okay, fine, so maybe there are a few bikes without serial numbers, but this is rare and typical only on hand made bikes or really old bicycles.↩
- In this picture 200910427-2A is a manufacturer number and not a serial number. However, to make bikes as easy as possible to find, feel free to enter all numbers you encounter.↩
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Posted: Thu Nov 26, 2015 3:47 pm |
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Joined: Wed Apr 08, 2015 4:10 am Posts: 13 | Hi all. Im hoping someone may be able to throw some light on a steel mtb frame i picked up cheap at car boot. Its light, just under 5 pounds, been poorly resprayed but original colour under rattle can finish is light green. Seller said it was a rockhopper. But looking at the serial no which is 94M2403, im thinking it may actually be a 94 Stumpjumper M2 FS. frame. Seat post size is about 30-31mm which i think was on stumpjumper of the time but not rockhopper. Colour given in 94 catalogue for M2 FS was silver-green which also points to that conclusion. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
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Posted: Thu Nov 26, 2015 5:58 pm |
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Joined: Wed Aug 07, 2013 7:24 pm Posts: 307 Location: New Brunswick, Canada | If it's steel, it's not an M2. M2 is an aluminum alloy with a ceramic component, non-magnetic... Looks very aluminum-y Frames weighed about 4.4# IIRC.... mine's not been weighed frame-only. Check out the photos of my bike (link in sig), and compare to yours. Downtube gussets and the like... Mine's a '95, but substantially similar to the '94 M2. Without seeing it, it is possible that it's a steel Stumpjumper. Weight is close. Steel is magnetic, check. I have a light metallic green steel stumpy frame (95) in my basement right now... Check the catalogue for that year: http://www.retrobike.co.uk/gallery2/d/1 ... 4_Mini.pdf J _________________ My '95 Stumpjumper M2 FS http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewto ... p;t=267744 My wife's '97 Hardrock AX retro-mod http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewto ... p;t=344385
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Posted: Thu Nov 26, 2015 6:40 pm |
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Joined: Wed Apr 08, 2015 4:10 am Posts: 13 | Hi, thanks for that info. It's definitely steel, no extra gussets or anything. I want to make use of a set of carbon forks I already have, which are 445mm crown to centre, which I think equates to an 80mm suspended fork. Assuming it is either the Stumpjumper or Sj FS in the catalogue. Is it likely the actual frames are exactly the same, ie suspension corrected? Headtube is standard 1&1/8'.
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Posted: Thu Nov 26, 2015 6:52 pm |
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Joined: Wed Aug 07, 2013 7:24 pm Posts: 307 Location: New Brunswick, Canada | Spesh frames were suspension corrected, AFAIK, by 1994. Especially likely on those with 1.125' steerers. I wouldn't worry a bit. J _________________ My '95 Stumpjumper M2 FS http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewto ... p;t=267744 My wife's '97 Hardrock AX retro-mod http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewto ... p;t=344385
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Posted: Thu Nov 26, 2015 6:59 pm |
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Joined: Wed Apr 08, 2015 4:10 am Posts: 13 | |
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Specialized Bicycle Serial Number Decoder
Post subject:Re: Specialized model |
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Joined: Wed Feb 20, 2008 12:21 pm Posts: 3607 Location: Lost in Translation | Hi, thanks for that info. It's definitely steel, no extra gussets or anything. I want to make use of a set of carbon forks I already have, which are 445mm crown to centre, which I think equates to an 80mm suspended fork. Assuming it is either the Stumpjumper or Sj FS in the catalogue. Is it likely the actual frames are exactly the same, ie suspension corrected? The correct rigid fork for a Stumpjumper of that age measures about 412mm axle-to-crown, so the carbon fork you have is a fair bit longer than ideal. A classic Kona P2 is a good alternative at 410mm. Oversized steel Stumpjumpers and Rockhoppers of the period (assuming a frame built in 1994 for the '95 model year) both used a 30.4mm seatpost in a 31.8mm seat tube. _________________ Calmes dans le demi-jour Que les branches hautes font, Pénétrons bien notre amour De ce silence profond.
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Posted: Thu Nov 26, 2015 9:04 pm |
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Joined: Wed Apr 08, 2015 4:10 am Posts: 13 | Ah, that's a pity. I do actually have a pair of Specialized rigid forks from a later model stumpy, think a 95 rigid. They are 425mm, as well as another chromo set around 415mm so will have to play with them and see how it goes. Many thanks for the advice.
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Posted: Fri Nov 27, 2015 3:11 pm |
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Joined: Wed Aug 07, 2013 7:24 pm Posts: 307 Location: New Brunswick, Canada | Ultimately, I guess it depends on what you want from the bike... BITD, and still now, people regularly modify their bicycles with upgraded forks, often pushing the A-C measurement beyond what the original rigid forks had. IMHO, it doesn't affect a bicycle's handling nearly as much as some would have us believe. As a more extreme example than what you're contemplating, over the last couple years as my wife's MTB skills progressed, I've upgraded her once rigid Hardrock AX ('97) from the OEM rigid chromo fork to a crap Judy J1 80mm, to a Magura Asgard 100. The Asgard's AC length is a whopping 476mm. That slackened the head angle a couple degrees. She came back from her first hard riding experience with the upgraded bike (on trails she's very familiar with) commenting only on the better suspension and surer handling (no doubt due to the stiffer Magura fork over the crap J1). Her head angle has been slackened by some 3 degrees, from something near 69 to more like 66 (neglecting sag, which adds a degree back in). Actually, it's put the bike's geometry largely in line with more relaxed modern offerings... Adding 30mm to a fork on a bike with a wheelbase of about 44' changes the head angle less than 1.5 degrees. At worst, it'll remove some of the mid'90's nervousness from the bike's handling on fast downhills, IMHO. J _________________ My '95 Stumpjumper M2 FS http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewto ... p;t=267744 My wife's '97 Hardrock AX retro-mod http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewto ... p;t=344385
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Posted: Fri Nov 27, 2015 9:02 pm |
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Joined: Wed Apr 08, 2015 4:10 am Posts: 13 | |
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